The drum turns, the timer counts down, and the clothes come out damp or cold. That points to a dryer that is not making or moving enough heat. Sometimes the cause is a clogged filter you can clean in a minute. Other times a heating part has failed and needs replacing.
Start with what type of dryer you have, because the checks differ.
Know your type of dryer
- Vented dryers heat air, pass it through the clothes and push the damp air outside through a hose or vent.
- Condenser dryers heat air and cool it again to turn moisture into water, which collects in a tank or drains away. There is no outside vent.
- Heat pump dryers are a type of condenser dryer. They reuse heat in a sealed system, run at lower temperatures and take longer per load.
Heat pump dryers feel only warm, not hot, when they are working normally. That is how they are designed, so do not assume a fault just because the air is not very hot.
Lint is dry, fine and burns easily. Clean the lint filter after every load. If you have a vented dryer, check the hose and outside vent for build up regularly. Never run a dryer with a missing or damaged filter, and do not leave it running while you are out. If you smell burning, stop the dryer, switch it off at the wall and call a technician.
Safe checks for any dryer
- Clean the lint filter Pull it out and remove the lint. Then hold it under a tap. If water pools on the mesh instead of draining through, a film from fabric softener sheets has built up. Wash the filter with warm soapy water, rinse it and let it dry before you put it back.
- Check the load A drum packed too tight stops air flowing through the clothes. A very small load can also tumble into a ball and dry unevenly. Aim for a drum that is about half to three quarters full.
- Check the power Make sure the plug is fully in and that the power point is working. Try another appliance there. If your dryer uses its own circuit, look at the safety switch and breaker in your switchboard.
- Check the cycle and heat setting A cool down or air only cycle will not heat. Make sure a delicate or low heat setting has not been selected for heavy items.
- Check the spin of the washer If clothes go in dripping wet because the washing machine is not spinning well, the dryer will struggle. Try a load that has had a proper spin.
Extra checks for vented dryers
A vented dryer needs a clear path for hot, damp air to leave. Switch it off at the wall, then check the following.
- Look at the vent hose behind the dryer for kinks or crushing.
- Check the outside vent or wall cap for a flap that is stuck, or lint packed behind it.
- Run the dryer for a few minutes and hold your hand near the outside vent. You should feel warm, moving air.
- If you can safely take the hose off, look inside for a lint blockage. Do not use a wire or metal rod that could damage the hose.
Extra checks for condenser and heat pump dryers
These machines rely on a heat exchanger, often called the condenser, to remove moisture. Lint gets past the filter over time and builds up in it, which slows the airflow and makes the dryer take far longer.
- Empty the water tank on every load, or make sure the drain hose is not kinked.
- Check the filter in or below the door for a fine layer of lint. Many dryers have a second foam or sponge filter.
- Clean the condenser if your model lets you remove it. Follow the manual. Many can be rinsed under a tap and left to dry fully before refitting.
- Give the dryer room to breathe. A tight cupboard can cause it to overheat, which is worse for condenser models.
When a heating part has failed
If the airflow is good, the filters are clean and the dryer still does not heat, the fault is probably in the heating circuit. These are the usual suspects:
- Heating element, the coil that makes the heat in vented and many condenser dryers. It can burn out or break.
- Thermal fuse, a safety part that blows if the dryer overheats. It often blows because of a blocked vent, so the cause needs fixing too.
- Thermostats and temperature sensors, which switch the heat on and off.
- Control board or timer, which may not be sending power to the element.
- On a heat pump dryer, a sealed system or compressor fault, which needs specialist assessment.
A thermal fuse blows to stop a dryer overheating. Replacing it with a wire or a different rated part removes that protection and creates a fire risk. A technician should fit the right part and find out why it blew.
Is it worth repairing?
Elements, fuses and thermostats are usually reasonable repairs on a dryer that is otherwise sound. A heat pump compressor fault is a bigger job, so it is worth getting a clear opinion on the cost against the age of the machine. Our repair or replace guide covers how to weigh that up.
If your dryer still will not heat after the filter and vent checks, or you smell burning at any point, book Kobe. He repairs dryers across Brisbane's Northside and the Redlands, and he will test the heating circuit and check the airflow before replacing anything.
Questions people ask
Why does my dryer run but not get hot?
The usual causes are a failed heating element, a blown thermal fuse or a faulty thermostat. Restricted airflow from a clogged filter or vent can cause the dryer to cut its heat as well.
Is it normal for a heat pump dryer to feel only warm?
Yes. Heat pump dryers run at lower temperatures than vented or standard condenser models. They take longer per load, but the clothes should still come out dry.
How often should I clean the lint filter?
After every load. Condenser and heat pump dryers also need the heat exchanger cleaned from time to time, and vented dryers need the hose and outside vent checked.